← All books
Paradox of Plenty
by Harvey Levenstein
Buy on Amazon
This remarkable book, the sequel to the author's Revolution at the Table (1988), analyses changes in the American diet and nutritional ideas from 1930 to the present. Much more than a study of eating habits, Paradox of Plenty is a sophisticated analysis of the dynamics of cultural change that deserves a wide audience among economic historians, political historians, women's historians, medical historians, and social historians. One of Levenstein's many perceptive insights is that the history of eating is inextricably tied up with a broader political economy and culture. With admirable balance, he carefully disentangles the roles of food producers and processors, home economists, faddists, nutritionists, and political pressure groups in shaping broader cultural ideas of nutrition and taste.…
Recommended by
"This is the book that you should read if you want to understand where modern American food came from – how hamburgers and McDonald’s came about – and why the rest of the world is now eating it. His argument is based upon the fact that in America in the 19th century, waves of immigrants were coming from all over the world, arriving with their own food cultures intact. If you look at food culture anywhere, what you find is that recipes are based usually on locally sourced ingredients and so national tastes develop. In Italy it might be garlic, and in Hungary paprika, in Mexico chilli and so on, flavours which make food interesting and tasty. When you put these different food cultures together you get a clash of tastes. The Italian immigrants in America found that if they invited their Lithuanian neighbours over for dinner, the Lithuanians couldn’t stand the garlic, and if the Lithuanians invited the Italians, they found the blood sausage disgusting. In order to get on with their neighbours, these different food cultures began to take out the elements of the food which were offensive. What you ended up with was bland food. Now what are the three flavour enhancing elements of food which nobody finds offensive? Salt, fat and sugar, and it was these that were used to compensate. In order to make up for the fact that food which is bland doesn’t fill you up as fast, they made the portions bigger. And there were vast quantities of meat available as well, of course, due to the extensive land available. So there you have it: Harvey Levenstein’s explanation of how the American diet came to be!"