Waterman: The Life and Times of Duke Kahanamoku

"The Duke remains larger than life as a true ambassador of the Aloha Spirit in life, especially in surfing. “The Aloha Spirit is the coordination of mind and heart within each person… Each person must think and emote good feelings towards others.” That’s one definition. We live in a world that has become more complex and faster moving with our attention often drawn towards the negative rather than the positive aspects and thoughts. We can reset our intention to be more like Duke and in doing this, find a sense of peace and harmony with our natural world. This book is a fascinating glimpse into the early twentieth-century history of Olympic swimming but also addresses broader themes like amateurism and racism in sport, and the commodification of surfing. His history should be taught in schools in Hawaii. In fact, it should be on the syllabus throughout the country and abroad. It is our duty to try to be better, to live with Aloha as Duke did. Surfing makes you feel good, being a jerk doesn’t. Good most often wins out over bad and if it doesn’t, then usually they stop surfing and find something else to do."